With the exception of a couple of months near Elbasan, in the center of the country, I mostly lived in the small city of Girokaster. G is a World Heritage Site about an hour north of the Greek border, and it was my home for almost two years.
This is a compilation of emails sent home plus a very few, very short essays. They are sometimes funny, sometimes tragic, and sometimes bizarre but each one is a snapshot of quintessential Albania—a country almost completely cut off from the rest of the world by a paranoid dictator until the late 1980s.